Azores in sight - but where's my crew?

The return crossing is drawing nearer, and so far we are three crew strong. When I had to disappoint a lot of people on the crossing to Grenada, the trip to the Azores is drawing much less positive response. Not that I don't get inquiries, but a lot of people are perhaps looking for something else.

By now, I've learned never to count on anyone, so I always try to get some back-ups. This time, however, just getting 4 crew is hard work. I've had to answer dozens of text messages - all by the same person - just to arrange a Skype-session only to hear he wouldn't be joining us. In the end, I may be cheaper off just hiring paid crew. But I'm confident we'll get enough crew for the crossing by the time we reach the BVI.

After all, who wouldn't want to sail to the Azores? Those mystical islands in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean have always lured me and many other sailors. It's certainly a special target of this trip and we've got some good friends coming over once we're there.

So getting to the Azores may be the end of the Caribbean part of the journey, it's also a long cherished dream coming true. I'm answering about 2 e-mails a week now inquiring into the crossing, but so far only one positive reply and one crew are certain. And that's if all goes well.

Antigua

Leaving Guadeloupe was harder than getting there. We left for Antigua on Monday morning. The wind decided otherwise though, and we had to turn back or spend an uncomfortable night in Montserrat.

So after two hours we were back in Deshaies for another attempt the next morning. This time, the wind was more favorable, although it turned again in the afternoon and the last hour was again spent motoring.

But we got to English Harbour before nightfall and anchored in the mangroves. Next day was spent clearing in, shopping, and having a nice time in Falmouth Harbour in the next bay.



The third day in Antigua we left for Jolly harbour after an excellent lunch in Johnny Coconat's bar. The Island atmosphere was getting a firm grip on us again, so we stayed for two nights with a shopping day in between in the Epicurean super market. The name says it all, no need to elaborate on the fine foods we bought.



Another day and an hour in the pouring rain to reach Deep Bay with our anchor dropping just as the rain stopped. Well, no good continuing now, there's some good snorkeling on the wreck of the Andes freighter.



Then onwards, to Boon Channel and the North East. A maze of reefs, islands and perfect anchorages. Three days and we're not thinking of leaving, although...



The next day we're still anchored at Redhead Island where a large colony of pelicans is nesting and a lot of young are making a racket every morning. We already spotted a large Sting Ray while snorkeling the reefs on the East side of Redhead island, and the numbers of lobsters, lambi shells and coral fish are staggering.



Finally, we're starting to feel there is more to explore and we head for Parham harbour to clear out. A last night at Long Island and perhaps tomorrow we'll head for St. Kitts and Nevis. But who knows what tomorrow brings?

The shark and the turtle

Yesterday when we were snorkeling Pigeon bay in the nature reserve, a giant loggerhead turtle surfaced just behind the boat. We dove as it did and tried to follow it, and I noticed two small sharks hiding underneath the turtle.

At first I couldn't believe it, but as the turtle reached the bottom, the sharks repositioned themselves for a brief moment so I could get a good look at them. The depth was only 5 meters so visibility was excellent.

The turtle of about 120 cm long then started swimming lazily so I could keep up with it for about 100 meters until it sped up, the two sharks still underneath and keeping up at the same pace.

I don't generally regret not being able to take pictures under water, but this was such an opportunity, it was a shame I couldn't.

Although sharks and turtles are generally not friendly, I witnessed a wonderful example of a giant loggerhead serving as hiding place for two small sharks. Ocean life never ceases to amaze.

Choco Banane Glacée

Upon arriving at Iles des Saintes, we just caught up with my brother in law before he left for Guadeloupe and Paris. The whole family was gathered on the shoreside esplanade of La Crique, where they were having smoothies and my nephew was drinking a mixture of cocoa, banana and ice with whipped cream on top.



And he couldn't keep quiet about it. So much so, that the next they they all went for a choco banane glacée, as well as every day since. It's a perfect mixture and it's very suited for a French Caribbean island. And it isn't just ice cream smoothies, we have been eating and drinking very well ever since we arrived in Grenada. The pizzas in Prickly Bay marina, the grill at True Blue Bay resort, fish and grill at the Lambi Queen in Carriacou, Banana bread in the Cays, Creole food in St. Vincent. Even the international cuisine in Canouan Beach Hotel was delicious, and of course the French Creole dishes in Martinique and Guadeloupe.

Good drinks too, with Carib beer and Shandy Carib on top, local juices and smoothies and even some typical soft drinks such as Schweppes exotique. And then of course, the Choco Banane Glacée. It's a very simple combination, but it's beyond comparison. So much so, that it would be a shame not to make it when we get home in a couple of months, while at the same time it will not be the same. For one, because the scenery of Iles des Saintes will not be there, and another because at home, we have to watch our figures and on holiday, we don't.

42

Just to say thanks for all the nice messages I've received for my 42nd birthday.

We had a very nice night out in Les Iles des Saintes in the Ti Kaz LA restaurant.

Now I know the secret to life, the universe and...

Family visit

It was a happy day when I saw my sister and her family again in Guadeloupe. After only seeing each other on Skype for eight months, I surprised them by going to meet them at the airport at Point a Pitre.

We got together a couple of times after that, the last time when we sailed along the coast. We had intended to go to Marie Galante, but some squalls followed by a total dying of the wind for an hour or so made some faces go slightly green and we headed back to port for some snorkeling and swimming to the island off Gosier.

We did a tour on Guadeloupe and visited a wonderful waterfall with a natural slide to the water's edge. No small wonder that I felt compelled to try it out. Most of the others preferred the jump from above into the pool, so a lot of fun was had by all.

Tomorrow we're going to Iles des Saintes so a nice prospect for the next few days. Also it should rain less which is also a change from recent days.

Paradise

It was promised to be a diving paradise but it proved to be much more. When we arrived in Dominica around midnight, nothing was visible yet of the lush rainforest, the magnificent coast line or the range of imposing volcanoes.



After saying goodbye to our friends who had a plane to catch in Guadeloupe, we arranged a dive for the next day and went to visit the thundering waters of Trafalgar falls. The drive there was steep and through wild jungle. After a short hike we reached the falls, but more importantly, we also found a hot water stream nearby. The river formed many ponds where one could lie in and we enjoyed the hot baths for over an hour.



It being seven months ago since I had a hot bath, you can imagine the joy of being in steaming hot water that long. After a while I began alternating between hot and cold pools and even in the pool where the hot and cold waters joined. It was pure bliss.



The next morning the dive boat from Aldive came to pick us up at eight thirty. Alan the dive master took us to Soufrière Pinnacle where we saw a wonderful coral drop off down to 24 metres. Lots of coral fishes, moray eels and a turtle. Before the second dive, Alan took us to the village and showed us around the historically rich buildings, such as the cave church. Later we bathed in the hot pool on the shore, where some stones were gathered to form a barrier from the sea water. Laying in the sea on the hot surface was another brilliant experience unique to Dominica.



This really is paradise. Meanwhile Ingrid was getting wet in the jungle on her way to the boiling lake, of which she has an account here.