We got some dolphins along the way, which was a nice diversion.
Friday, November 19, 2010
Beating East
After Mindelo, we sailed back East to Boavista. It was a 130 Mile beat with about 12 hours of motoring into the trade winds and swell.
We got some dolphins along the way, which was a nice diversion.
We got some dolphins along the way, which was a nice diversion.
Forced rest
The crossing from Sao Vicente to Boavista was the first without a following wind. It's been a while since we had to beat into the wind, and the trades aren't much fun to beat into.
After a day of sailing close hauled, we anchored near the uninhabited island of Santa Luzia. We got in late, just after dark. The anchor held, but we put out 60 Metres of chain just to be sure.
The next day, after swimming ashore among large schools of fish, we left for Boavista. It was an unenventful passage, all the while beating into the wind with some 12 hours of motoring before we cleared Sau Nicolau.
In the final approach to Boavista, we were joined briefly by 2 dolphins. On every passage in Cape Verde, we've spotted dolphins, whales and sea turtles. It's still nice to see them, and it enlightens every day we're on passage.
Today, while visiting our friendly Belgian neighbour, I slipped while boarding and heard an awful crunching noise from the lower right ribs. After a visit to the local hospital, the verdict luckily was only a bruised rib and a bit of muscle trauma. In any case, it means no diving for the next few weeks. I hope I can snorkel the local shallow wreck, otherwise it's the beach for two weeks!
Now who can complain about a bit of forced rest in Boavista?
After a day of sailing close hauled, we anchored near the uninhabited island of Santa Luzia. We got in late, just after dark. The anchor held, but we put out 60 Metres of chain just to be sure.
The next day, after swimming ashore among large schools of fish, we left for Boavista. It was an unenventful passage, all the while beating into the wind with some 12 hours of motoring before we cleared Sau Nicolau.
In the final approach to Boavista, we were joined briefly by 2 dolphins. On every passage in Cape Verde, we've spotted dolphins, whales and sea turtles. It's still nice to see them, and it enlightens every day we're on passage.
Today, while visiting our friendly Belgian neighbour, I slipped while boarding and heard an awful crunching noise from the lower right ribs. After a visit to the local hospital, the verdict luckily was only a bruised rib and a bit of muscle trauma. In any case, it means no diving for the next few weeks. I hope I can snorkel the local shallow wreck, otherwise it's the beach for two weeks!
Now who can complain about a bit of forced rest in Boavista?
Sunday, November 14, 2010
Pico de Fogo
After Santago came Fogo and on Fogo, there is a volcano. So we visited the volcano, in two groups so as not to leave the boat unattended. I stayed on board the first day and had a good time snorkeling and enjoying the island life.
The second day, Spencer and I got serious and we climbed the volcano. It's the toughest hike on Fogo and takes up to 6 hours. We started early and with the help of our guide we climbed the 1200 Metres up the slope of the mountain. We were glad to bring plenty of water as the sun rose over the crater rim. A short traverse over a lapili field - which are very small lava particles - almost brought me to my knees, as I was sliding down 90 percent of each step. It was described in the guidebook as the heaviest part of the climb, and this was no lie.
The rock climbing was on the limit of what I could do, but this was mostly due to all the loose rocks requiring the utmost concentration.
After three hours, we reached the crater mouth and had a magnificent view of the inside. The height is over 2800 Metres and for the first time, I experienced a lack of oxygen on this height. Also, the smell of sulphur was overwhelming.
After some food and a lot of water, we started the trip down. The first part is relatively hard, with a lot of loose rocks but luckily not too steep. It is an entirely different path from that to climb the volcano, to minimize the risks. After that, there is just endless fields of lapili, which you can run down as fast as you dare. Some parts we ran down hand in hand with the guide untill I got tired from running. The trick was braking in the gravel whenever you got up to too high speed.
After 30 minutes, we were down to a road leading to Châ de Caldeirao, the village on the floor of the ancient crater. We drove back to the boat to rest from our ascent of this master of all volcanic cones.
The second day, Spencer and I got serious and we climbed the volcano. It's the toughest hike on Fogo and takes up to 6 hours. We started early and with the help of our guide we climbed the 1200 Metres up the slope of the mountain. We were glad to bring plenty of water as the sun rose over the crater rim. A short traverse over a lapili field - which are very small lava particles - almost brought me to my knees, as I was sliding down 90 percent of each step. It was described in the guidebook as the heaviest part of the climb, and this was no lie.
The rock climbing was on the limit of what I could do, but this was mostly due to all the loose rocks requiring the utmost concentration.
After three hours, we reached the crater mouth and had a magnificent view of the inside. The height is over 2800 Metres and for the first time, I experienced a lack of oxygen on this height. Also, the smell of sulphur was overwhelming.
After some food and a lot of water, we started the trip down. The first part is relatively hard, with a lot of loose rocks but luckily not too steep. It is an entirely different path from that to climb the volcano, to minimize the risks. After that, there is just endless fields of lapili, which you can run down as fast as you dare. Some parts we ran down hand in hand with the guide untill I got tired from running. The trick was braking in the gravel whenever you got up to too high speed.
After 30 minutes, we were down to a road leading to Châ de Caldeirao, the village on the floor of the ancient crater. We drove back to the boat to rest from our ascent of this master of all volcanic cones.
Sunday, November 7, 2010
Wednesday, November 3, 2010
Island life
Africa indeed. The first impressions of Cabo Verde were mixed. The towns are typical, the people very friendly with a can do attitude. We quickly took to the ways and had a lot of fun.
Sal is a barren place, but when we arrived it was all saints and the locals in Palmeira were having parties for three days. All the action was on the shore next to the fishing quai. There was dancing and drinking and a lot of talking and we got a lot of conversation going with many people. We went to a very nice Italian restaurant and learned that there is a large group of Italians in Sal, and this is great as it adds to the already warm atmosphere.
The anchorages until now are relatively secure, but we might have to employ boat minders later on, after losing a pump while ashore in Palmeira.
Next stop is Santiago on the Southern group of islands, and then Fogo before returning to Mindelo where Philip will catch a plane back.
But for now, it's the easy island life. Mais tarde!
Sal is a barren place, but when we arrived it was all saints and the locals in Palmeira were having parties for three days. All the action was on the shore next to the fishing quai. There was dancing and drinking and a lot of talking and we got a lot of conversation going with many people. We went to a very nice Italian restaurant and learned that there is a large group of Italians in Sal, and this is great as it adds to the already warm atmosphere.
The anchorages until now are relatively secure, but we might have to employ boat minders later on, after losing a pump while ashore in Palmeira.
Next stop is Santiago on the Southern group of islands, and then Fogo before returning to Mindelo where Philip will catch a plane back.
But for now, it's the easy island life. Mais tarde!
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