No messages for three weeks, so perhaps we can dream of what we leave behind...
Tomorrow we're off for Faial, 2200 Miles on, to Europe!
Monday, April 18, 2011
Across again
Our last stop in the BVI is Anegada. Low island of sand and brush, paradise of birds, sea and sun.
No messages for three weeks, so perhaps we can dream of what we leave behind...
Tomorrow we're off for Faial, 2200 Miles on, to Europe!
No messages for three weeks, so perhaps we can dream of what we leave behind...
Tomorrow we're off for Faial, 2200 Miles on, to Europe!
Wednesday, April 13, 2011
Rhone diving
It was a dive I'd read about and it was supposed to be special, so after some inquiries I went with BVI Dive to the wreck of RMS Rhone. We had to get a permit to use one of the national park moorings, so I went to the park office and handed over my 12 dollars to a slightly disorganized but very cheerful lady at the counter. We anchored over at Peter island and in the morning motored over to Salt island, where the Rhone was wrecked about 150 years ago.
The dive was very well organized, and we went down two times, first for the bow section in about 25 meters and then the stern section, a bit shallower next to the rocks where it floundered and about 300 passengers met their deaths.
And it was awesome. Barracuda, sharks, huge lobsters, huge coral reef fish, it has it all. Two swim-throughs into the wreck with fish and lobsters hiding inside. And endless parts strewn across the ocean floor, some recognizable and some just coral encrusted bits of metal.
Just before the second dive, rain had started pouring so we went in and stayed just below the surface for a minute or two, watching the rain splashing down in the water above us. It is a very nice sight, especially in such nice warm water at 27° C.
So the diving in the BVI proved first rate, as the snorkeling already had. It was an excellent diving experience to conclude an already wonderful cruise in the Caribbean aboard Victor Too.
The dive was very well organized, and we went down two times, first for the bow section in about 25 meters and then the stern section, a bit shallower next to the rocks where it floundered and about 300 passengers met their deaths.
And it was awesome. Barracuda, sharks, huge lobsters, huge coral reef fish, it has it all. Two swim-throughs into the wreck with fish and lobsters hiding inside. And endless parts strewn across the ocean floor, some recognizable and some just coral encrusted bits of metal.
Just before the second dive, rain had started pouring so we went in and stayed just below the surface for a minute or two, watching the rain splashing down in the water above us. It is a very nice sight, especially in such nice warm water at 27° C.
So the diving in the BVI proved first rate, as the snorkeling already had. It was an excellent diving experience to conclude an already wonderful cruise in the Caribbean aboard Victor Too.
Friday, April 8, 2011
Goin' home
After the lonely beaches of Anguilla, we've come to the last stop of our Caribbean circuit. Very touristy, with hundreds of charter boats. We manage to squeeze into anchorages, albeit sometimes a bit awkwardly. The beaches are fine, the sailing excellent.
The first items on a list of things to do before we leave for the Azores are being tackled. It isn't a very long list, we've been doing this for a while now. Just a few more days of cruising, relaxing and sampling the local cooking and we'll be heading across the big pond again.
The crew has smoothly filled up and we'll be crossing with the five of us. We're preparing for the extra people on board. The last few bouts of snorkeling and some more turtles, rays, lobsters and barracuda. One evening snorkel with my dive lights we had an eagle ray whizzing by at very close range.
The BVI is a very nice cruising ground, something to come back to. So many bays to be explored, so many islands. They'll have to wait for us to come back one day, perhaps chartering out of Road Town or a nearby place.
So we head for Village Cay Marina, where we'll pick up our crew and get supplies, and seek that weather window that sets us off across to yet another string of beautiful islands, much closer to home.
The first items on a list of things to do before we leave for the Azores are being tackled. It isn't a very long list, we've been doing this for a while now. Just a few more days of cruising, relaxing and sampling the local cooking and we'll be heading across the big pond again.
The crew has smoothly filled up and we'll be crossing with the five of us. We're preparing for the extra people on board. The last few bouts of snorkeling and some more turtles, rays, lobsters and barracuda. One evening snorkel with my dive lights we had an eagle ray whizzing by at very close range.
The BVI is a very nice cruising ground, something to come back to. So many bays to be explored, so many islands. They'll have to wait for us to come back one day, perhaps chartering out of Road Town or a nearby place.
So we head for Village Cay Marina, where we'll pick up our crew and get supplies, and seek that weather window that sets us off across to yet another string of beautiful islands, much closer to home.
Monday, April 4, 2011
Routine
It's a bright morning and we decide we want to be Somewhere Else. The boat has been tidied and nothing will fall over if we heel. Ingrid takes the anchor winch stick while I start the engine.
I walk forward to help with the anchor chain safety. We always attach a hook to the chain to prevent the forces from being transferred to the anchor winch.
I take the rope with me to the cockpit to secure it. Meanwhile, Ingrid has started winching the anchor in. I help her by motoring forward slowly.
After the anchor is up and secured, we sail off for our next destination.
After a hard sail - the Caribbean, you know - we arrive and Ingrid walks forward to prepare the anchor. She stands ready while Paul positions Victor Too.
The anchor goes at the right spot and we let out 10 meters of chain, then wait for the wind to make the anchor grab. We let out more scope and secure the chain.
Then, sometimes I snorkel to check on the anchor. But when we can see the sandy bottom, this isn't necessary. Only once we've had to re-anchor, and once I have had to reverse afterwards to make the anchor dig in. So we're quite pleased with our Manson anchor.
After all the cruising, we deserved a drink!
I walk forward to help with the anchor chain safety. We always attach a hook to the chain to prevent the forces from being transferred to the anchor winch.
I take the rope with me to the cockpit to secure it. Meanwhile, Ingrid has started winching the anchor in. I help her by motoring forward slowly.
After the anchor is up and secured, we sail off for our next destination.
After a hard sail - the Caribbean, you know - we arrive and Ingrid walks forward to prepare the anchor. She stands ready while Paul positions Victor Too.
The anchor goes at the right spot and we let out 10 meters of chain, then wait for the wind to make the anchor grab. We let out more scope and secure the chain.
Then, sometimes I snorkel to check on the anchor. But when we can see the sandy bottom, this isn't necessary. Only once we've had to re-anchor, and once I have had to reverse afterwards to make the anchor dig in. So we're quite pleased with our Manson anchor.
After all the cruising, we deserved a drink!
Friday, April 1, 2011
Snorkeling
Awe
First I was stunned. I was looking at a huge fish. It was 1.5 meters long and it was floating in the water. We were snorkeling off Creole Rock in French St. Martin. There was a good deal of coral and many schools of fish, angelfish, sergeant majors, surgeonfish, the works. Then I stared at its head as I circled it slowly. It was a barracuda.
Anxiety
It was not just a barracuda, but the biggest monster I have seen to date. It was floating about 30 cm below the surface and it was so big I squeezed Ingrid's hand and whispered "barracuda" in my snorkel tube. We positioned ourselves to its side and a bit further away, to get a good look and also not to attract attention to ourselves.
Escape
The head of this fish was so big, my whole hand would fit in its mouth effortlessly. I imagined it was pure luck that it wasn't feeding or we may have suddenly become prey. We watched it intently for a good ten minutes as it seemed to rest between the coral heads and apparently unaware fish swam around it. After a while I figured it wasn't going to attack us, or it would have already done so. So I started backing away slowly, holding hands with Ingrid as we exchanged glances while keeping an eye on this monster of the seas. We successfully got away and regretted not having brought the underwater camera Ingrid's brother had bought just the day before.
First I was stunned. I was looking at a huge fish. It was 1.5 meters long and it was floating in the water. We were snorkeling off Creole Rock in French St. Martin. There was a good deal of coral and many schools of fish, angelfish, sergeant majors, surgeonfish, the works. Then I stared at its head as I circled it slowly. It was a barracuda.
Anxiety
It was not just a barracuda, but the biggest monster I have seen to date. It was floating about 30 cm below the surface and it was so big I squeezed Ingrid's hand and whispered "barracuda" in my snorkel tube. We positioned ourselves to its side and a bit further away, to get a good look and also not to attract attention to ourselves.
Escape
The head of this fish was so big, my whole hand would fit in its mouth effortlessly. I imagined it was pure luck that it wasn't feeding or we may have suddenly become prey. We watched it intently for a good ten minutes as it seemed to rest between the coral heads and apparently unaware fish swam around it. After a while I figured it wasn't going to attack us, or it would have already done so. So I started backing away slowly, holding hands with Ingrid as we exchanged glances while keeping an eye on this monster of the seas. We successfully got away and regretted not having brought the underwater camera Ingrid's brother had bought just the day before.
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